Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Biking the Seven Lakes - From Bariloche to Villa La angostura

The seven lakes route is one of the most attractive destinations of the Argentine Patagonia ,it really starts in Villa La Angostura but really, I wanted to start in Bariloche to have bragging rights.

the distance is roughly 90 clicks from Bariloche to La Angostura, most people camp in between, but since I was at the end of the season I decided to do the trip in one day, (totally doable if you are in basic shape)Also I wanted to train for the second leg from V. La Angostura to San Martin.

I have to mention that the trip is all on good asphalt , a bit tight since the road does not have a curve but this is the most scenic part of Ruta 40 that goes all the way to Tierra del Fuego.

It has too many hills to count and is mostly and windy and windy (as in wind) specially when it hits a straight stretch around the Lake Nahuel Huapi which it circles around.

I know that this is a very frequented road by both cars and bikes, but I was really lucky since it was the end of the season plus some covid scare and I was practically the only cyclist on the road.

The trip was splendid, with a wonderful sunny day.

I stopped for lunch at the tip of Lake Nahuel Huapi and continued to Villa La Angostura arriving at 5pm.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Biking the Seven Lakes

And finally, the main purpose of my trip to Bariloche. Bike the seven lakes from Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes, crossing two provinces in a 210 click voyage.
Before even travelling to Bariloche you need to have a proper bike to do the trip. There are several options. One being renting a bike in Bariloche and paying an extra fee to return it in San Martin, or bringing it back yourself by bus.
According to my research that was more than double the price of bringing it down with me, for that there are also two options.
1- Flying it with you, for which you need to procure a bike box, taxi it to and from the airport.
2- Shipping it by bus and avoid all the airport hussle.I took the second option shipping it 3 blocks from where I live in Buenos Aires. the company name is "Via Cargo" and they have offices all over Argentina.

Upon arriving in Bariloche I took public transport from the airport to the city, got off at the shipping depot and hopped on my bike.

I stayed a day in Bariloche and departed early in the morning.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn -Another place to stay - Hopa House Patagonia

 I have to mention that Bariloche is an all year round tourist destination, so there are tons of places to stay. I am limiting myself to two places I personally stayed at.

Hopa house, located at Onelli 125 is very well located, close but not to close to the downtown area. Its a wee cheaper and a bit basic lodging but the breakfast included rocks.

I only spent a night cuz it was closer to the place I had to pick up my bike for the trip i will narrate ahead.

But was very satisfied with Location, staff and common areas of the place.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn -Where to stay - Selina Bariloche

I believe I already mentioned the Selina chain of Hotels which double as Hostels. I stayed for the first time in Cordoba (Argentina) this year.

They all seem to abyde by the same standard and one cool thing is that the wifi password is the same for all, so when you get there you´re hooked up.
The one in Bariloche is pretty cool, cuz it used to be a Hotel previously and was bought by Selina, so it has an outdoor pool and a heated one too (not included in the rooms rate).

The beds are confy and the rooms clean with ample bathrooms. Now if you are on foot you´ll have to climb a pretty steep road to get there, so if you are not already in shape you will be at the end of your stay.

 

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Another place to eat- La Marca Patogónica

As I mentioned before, I was on a mission to eat Patagonian trout in Bariloche, so besides cooking my own, I went to several restaurants to taste the different preparations.

One evening I went to "La marca Patagonica" locatedat at Urquiza 230, smack beside the "Centro Cívico square", you wo´nt find anything more downtown.

warning: it can be a tourist trap if you order without checking the menu, but if you stick to the specials, which are mostly local game and fish, you´ll be o.k.

I went for the grilled trout with rustic potatoes, something very simple whit no side effects.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Tour to Cerro Tronador

Totally not a fan of paid tours, theye are way overcharged, not bring you to the right place at the right time and tie you up for the whole day.

Never the less I did like the Tour to Cerro Troandor which included "Cascada de los Alerces" (below) and "Ventisquero negro" Glacier (Last pic), specially cuz I had just come back from a 200 click bike trip, so I needed some Pick me up and bring me time.

Organized by the biggest tour company in Bariloche, Called "Turisur" it will have tours to all of the major places of interest. This one was a whole day experience leaving at 8am and back at 6pm, with a long route and a pretty sympathetic tour guide.
The Alerces waterfall and the "Ventisquero Negro" glacier are a must see in Bariloche.

Not to mention that I paid 25 bucks for the whole day excursion, not including lunch of course.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Lake Trout

Patagonia is a world renowned spot for trout fishing, even if you do not practice the sport you may consider eating some fresh Patagonian lake trout at a restaurant or if you are staying at a place where you can cook, you can buy some at any local fish store.

 

There´s also the smoked or pickled variety, one of the eatable souvenirs you might consider bringing back home.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Rosehip paradise

 

If you ever had Rose hip tea or jam you know what I'm talking about. I will not get to explain what Rose hip is, but suffice to know that its basically a plague in Bariloche, brought by Europeans like most yummy things here, you will see them in every trail, beside the road and everywhere that is available for the bush to grow.

It is quite thorny all over, even the fruit has some prickles around it, so beware if you want to harvest some, do wear gloves.

If you go to Bariloche in late summer, or early fall you will see the bushes in full bloom, so fill free to collect some, nobody will tell you otherwise.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Restaurante Familia Weiss

Now in Bariloche you will find a wide variety of restos, touristy, family owned small, big, but i do recommend "Familia Weiss" which is one of the oldest still in bussiness restaurants that serve local
game with a German- Austrian twist.

Located at Valte O´Connor 401 in downtown Bariloche across the neo gothic Catholic Cathedral

I recommend all the trout and venison dishes and also the desserts are spectacular, specially those with berries.
I had the "Ciervo a la Cazadora" and "Peras al Borgoña", very good and not expensive at all.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Hot Chocolate mandatory

In Bariloche you will find a chocolate shop in every corner and good ones too, a reflection of the German, Swiss and Austrian immigrants.

In That department one of my favourites is "Hot Chocolate" which is served in most stores

Now I´m not talking bout a thick chocolate mixed with milk and not water like some supermarket bought stuff.

I do recommend drinking hot chocolate at one of the famous chocolate stores, specially during the winter months.

  

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Circuito Chico

What´s called the short circuit in Bariloche spans for 60 clicks but has its most intense views spanning from Puerto Pañuelo to the Base of Cerro Lopez if you ask me.

I did it walking, that was more or less 20 clicks, later I patched up some areas by car, but it can be also done biking- It will bring you to the most interesting views around Bariloche, be it lakes mountains and forest.

You´ll get the feel of the local flora and fauna and see picturesque places like "El Puente Romano" and many other areas which you can access via trails filled with Rose Hip and blackberry bushes.

 

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Puerto Pañuelo

Puerto Pañuelo, amy seems a funny name for a place, but as pañuelo means handkerchief, it refers to the early days of the Llao Llao Hotel, which lays right across from it, since there was not an official port there, people working or staying at the hotel had to summon passing boat whith a hanky to be able to catch a ride to Bariloche.

Since today it is an official port and one of the Gateways to "Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi"you can catch the boats that take on Lake tours into the park on the Nahuel Huapi lake.

These tours are a great day trip and you can buy the tickets there or in Bariloche, even at your own Hotel.

If you want to also see the other places mentioned in my previous posts and you don't have your own wheels, you can take the #20 city bus from downtown that will drop u off right in front of the Port in half an hour.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Llao Llao Hotel

The Llao Llao hotel is one of argentina´s most luxurious Hotels, considered a National historical monument.
Built in 1937 by Architect Alejandxro Bustillo in a Canadian Style (Whatever that means), it was inaugurated 1n 1938 and burnt to the ground a year later, it was later rebuilt and closed down until it reopened 1993.

If you can afford the price it is a spectacular place to stay in Bariloche, but if not you can still enjoy the view of the surrounding area.


Villa Lao Llao, the area where the Hotel was built is named after a fungi that grows on the alerce trees and which was considered sweet by the natives of the area, I was told that it isn't actually so delicious but I guess that they did not know sugar or honey so that had to do.


The location is really spectacular,. You can see the Nahuel Huapi and Moreno lakes from the Hotel´s entrance, it reminded me of The Banff Springs Hotel in the Rocky mountains in Canada.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Capilla de San Eduardo

 

Some 25 clicks on Bustillo Avenue, out of Bariloche you will surely visit the Llao Llao area, there you´ll probably pass by St. Edwards chapel, an Icon of the Area, a small chapel built in 1938 in a lumberjack style by the same architect who built the Lla Llao Hotel at the time when Bariloche was a top destination for Argentina's wealthy families who also had their estancia´s houses built by Bustillo.

The chapel is built on a small hill from where there is also a beautiful view of the sourrounding Cerro Lopez, the Llao llao Hotel and Puerto Pañuelo.

 The church was built mostly with local wood (Alerce) and is quite picturesque inside, the altar features a cross shaped painting done by Raul Soldi a famous Argentine painter

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn - Lake Nahuel Huapi

 Beautiful lake Nahuel Huapi is the third largest lake in the Patagonian region after "Lago Argentino" and "Lago Lacar" in between the provinces of Rio Negro and Neuquen, with a surface of 530 square kms. and a maximum depth of 15.22 feet, resting 2510 feet above sea level. It even has a legend of a lake monster called the "Nahuelito" similar to its cousin at Loch Ness.

staying in Bariloche you are in for great sunrises and sunsets on its shores.

Really nice to hike or bike along its shores not so great for bathing since its of glacier origin it can be chilly even at the apex of summer.

Trip to Bariloche in Autumn

1500 km south- west from Buenos Aires sits the city of Bariloche in the Province of Rio Negro. Right on the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake one of the largest Lakes in Argentina.

Bariloche is a year round Tourist destination being cooler than the rest of the country during the summer and having snow during the winter.

The city is spread mostly on the lake shore and has many nearby mountains that can be hiked or skied on and also several edifices built by famous Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo.

Exploring Patagonia - Ruta 40 - The Bariloche Cathedral

The Roman catholic Cathedral in Bariloche is one of the places worth while visiting in a city surrounded by so many natural wonders.

Named after "Nuestra Señora de Nahuel huapi", the Church is built in a Neo Gothic style.

Built in 1942 its interior is a mix of splendour and austerity and it s located right smack downtown.

Exploring Patagonia - Ruta 40 - Bariloche: Chocolate gallore

Yes, Bariloche is Argentina´s chocolate wonderland with fierce competition between Swiss, German,Austrian and even Russian families that set up their chocolate stores.














One of the classic firms that has developed into a chain of stores is the "Chocolatería del Turista" which also carries Ice cream, for those occasional hot days during the summer.
I must say that I enjoyed very much the "Apfel strudel" flavour, that they produce.



Now for something local, try the "Chocolate en Rama" which is a branch like stick that collapses in your mouth as the chocolate melts. You will find this all over Bariloche, from home made versions to industrial ones, that are actually quite good.