Argentina by Train - From Buenos Aires to Rufino

I have posted before bout the trains in Argentina, This time I decided to take the Retiro -Rufino train on the San Martin Railway, leaving From its terminal in Retiro Buenos Aires and arriving in Rufino, Santa Fe.


The train Leaves at 8pm and arrives at 6am, being a bit slower that the other trains I travelled in. I tried to bring my bike along but was surprised to find out that the train i was travelling in did not have a luggage car, so I was left on foot.

But in all the trip was agreeable with comfy seats and at a rock bottom price, the highlight of the trip was when we crossed the Picasa Lake or "Laguna Picasa" right at sunrise, seen in the middle pic, I think the whole trip was worth only for that experience.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - The Abandoned city.

So, finally I arrived at my final destination which were the ruins of the city of "Villa epecuen".

Where once stood a lake holiday resort on the eastern shore of the Epecuen lake, now sit post flood ruins 

Tourism was developed in the early 1920s by an Englishman after taking the land on lease. He marketed the lake as having healing properties, hiring Italian scientists to bolster the claim. At its height, Villa Epecuén could accommodate at least 5,000 visitors and was accesible by train leaving from Buenos Aires.

On 6 November 1985, a flood, caused by a rare weather pattern, broke a nearby dam, and then the dyke protecting the village; the water rose progressively, reaching a peak of 10 metres (33 ft). The village became uninhabitable and was never rebuilt. Many of the ruins are covered by a layer of white and grey salt. At the time, there were up to 280 businesses in Epecuén, including lodges, guesthouses, hotels, and businesses that 25,000 tourists visited between November and March, from the 1950s to the 1970s

Today it is an enclosed site open to visitors who can roam the abandoned streets of the city.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Carhue - Where to stay

I have mentioned that Carhue is famous for its thermal waters so I recommend you stay at a hotel that has a spa or pool, like "Posada del Lago"

I found it not so cheap, but very tidy and comfortable, well located and with very friendly staff

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Carhue - El Matadero Modelo

 

Built in 1938 for the city of Carhue in 1938 the municipal slaughter house was an emblem of modernism at the time, Argentina being a big producer of Meat and wheat for export.

Today it is abandoned due to the flooding of the city of Villa Epecuén in 1985, but it serves as a touristic attraction as an abandoned place close to the ruins of the city that sits 2 clicks away.

It can be accesed walking or by bike or car since its 4 clicks from downtown Carhue.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Carhue - Works by Francisco Salamone

I have written about Francisco Salamone in previous posts like when I visited Balcarce.In the late 1930's, several buildings were built in the Province of Buenos Aires, Argentina, basically municipal halls, slaughterhouses and cemeteries portals, designed by the engineer and architect Francisco Salamone, in the case of Carhue it has one of each.

The Municipality of Adolfo Alsina is in the city of Carhue and is a magnificent example of Salamone´s modernist style which I call Art Decó with a bit of Fascism, in the sense of the exaltation of the power of the state reflected in his buildings.

Also the entrance to the cemetery displays a crucified Christ and the slaughterhouse which I will comment on another post.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Carhue

Carhue sits at the South-western edge of the Buenos Aires Province very close to the La Pampa province and is the head of the Adolfo Alsina Partido.

A little more average than Pigue, it also has its charms, being graced by several buildings designed by Italian architect Francisco Salamone. It also has several hotels and Spas that offer thermal pools with water from Lake Epecuen, and actually the city holds the Guiness word record with 1941 people floating holding hands in a salty lake.

Besides having a beautiful main square it is also the closest city to Villa Epecuen which was my final destination.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Pigue - Best Medialunas in the Province

Upon Arriving in Pigue at 7am, we were bound to find a place to eat breakfast before we continued our Journey to Carhue. But of course everything was closed in a sleepy town on a Saturday morning.

Fortunatelly we stumbled upon a small bakery called " Le bon Pain" that was opening at 8am and was still baking its medias lunas, the argentine version of Croissants.

Besides being a fraction of the price that you pay in the city, they were the most delicious freshly baked Medialunas I ever had

 

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - Pigue

I have to say I was surprised with the city of Pigue. Founded in 1884 by a group of 40 families from Aveyron, France in Land bought to a local Land ownwer.

Very atypical of the towns in the province of Buenos Aires, Pigue has a French charm in its people and architecture.

With its church featuring images of Saint Joan of Arc and saint Jean Baptiste, I found ita a sight for sore eyes after the 10 hour train ride.

The Trip to Villa Epecuen - Buenos Aires province - the train

 

Something I have recently discovered is that the trains in Argentina are being renovated and are increasing its routes.One of them is the Route from Buenos Aires to Bahia Blanca in the Buenos Aires province, that departs at the Constitucion station in Buenos Aires.

So, on this trip my destination was the town of Pigue that sits three stops before the end of the line.
I have to say that the trains are in impeccable state and the tickets are less than half the price compared with the buses that cover the same routes.

I got a ticket on the Pullman which is an intermediate in between coach and first ckass, at a price of $ 4 dollars U$ for a trip that lasted 10 hours departing at 8pm and arriving at 7 am in Pigue.

Exploring the Buenos Aires Province - Villa Ruiz

 

Villa Ruiz, is a very small town in the "San Andres de Giles" county or Partido as they are called here.

One of the many forgotten places that used to be connected by the railroads and whose only purpose was to load the produce from the fertile pampas onto the train a and bring them to the port in Buenos Aires.

It is a charming but basically abandoned place where it is even hard to find a place to eat.

Never the less I had lunch a place called "La Pulpería" where I had some home made empanadas that were very good.

Exploring the Buenos Aires Province - Chacras San Andres - Villa Ruiz

 In the province of Buenos Aires there are thousands of Estancias and private estates that can be visited.

I had the opportunity to visit one called Chacras San Andres which is a hybrid of private homes and horse riding school and stables.

A fine sample of the Pampas nature and typical scenery of a Buenos Aires farm.

 

Long weekend in Tandil - Visiting Balcarce - The Cemetery

The Balcarce cemetery was also designed and built by Francisco Salamone and is located south of the city in opposite direction from the slaughterhouse.

 

Entering beyond its Monumentalist style gate it houses many monuments and graves from Balcarces most important families.

all bearing testimony from a more prosperous past of the city of Balcarce.

Long weekend in Tandil - Visiting Balcarce - The Salamone Heritage

 If you appreciate architecture you will like to visit the buildings designed by Italian architect Francisco Salamone which was very prolific in the 30s and 40s in the province of Buenos Aires

The first one being the city's grade school built right across the main square besides the Fangio Museum

Built in his trademark Monumentalist style it is unique and very attractive as a photo subject.

Long weekend in Tandil - Visiting Balcarce - Postre Balcarce

Definitely a Must eat in Balcarce is the "Postre Balcarce" a cake invented in the city which has its namesake, The "Postre Balcarce"is a luscious cake filled with meringue, dulce de leche and cream which you will find in any resto, bakery or cafe in Balcarcee.

Long weekend in Tandil - Visiting Balcarce - Saint Joseph´s church

Another building you will not miss is The "Saint Joseph parrish" located also across the main square in Balcarce.

Also worth visiting due tu its beautiful architecture and relaxing atmosphere far from the outside heat.